It is no surprise that an M60 / M62 requires more cooling capacity. There were two styles of radiators in M20 e30′s 1988+ and pre 1988. If you have 1988+ then an e36 or a Z3M (e36/4) radiator will fit without modification. If you have a pre 1988 then ‘it drops in, no mods, using the rubber feet on the the bottom of the core support and a later, plastic style hold down at the top.’ (bmwmech1). The regular e36 radiator also does not provide sufficient cooling capacity. The radiators part number: 17112227281 is a 3 core radiators that were used in later year s54 engined Z3M’s and in also used in S50B32 engined European M3 Evo’s; this radiator will fit without modification and will provide sufficient cooling. Don’t be afraid to use some Red line water wetter to help, I have heard great reviews about it.

After recently seeing a member on the r3v forum (bmwmech1), install a Mishimoto X-line 3 core Z3M radiator, I am sold on the idea that this is the most cost efficient to performance attaining ratio. The core of an OEM Z3M rad is 38mm, this beast is 61mm!

The only modification to make this huge thing fit is this little slit in the plastic.

For cooling, I recommend a 16″ pusher from a company like Permacool or SPAL VA18-AP51/C-41S FAN (16″ MP):

As for wiring ‘cut the harness of the stock aux fan leaving plenty of wire. Then spliced it in with the new fan. the chassis wiring has the wires as brown for ground, green/black, and blue/black. brown is carried over to the fan harness, but the green/black turns to just black, and the blue/black turns to red. When swapping some wires around on the other end and using the high speed circuit only, the blue/black wire is the one to use for power.

The thermoswitch on an 325i is located on the pass side of the radiator. it has 3 wires coming off it. green/black is ground, and then black for low speed, and black/brown for high speed. I swapped the black and black/brown wires. my reason is that the low speed is triggered at 196 degrees and the high speed is triggered at 210 degrees. by swapping the high speed is now triggered at 196 degrees. there is a little blob of body sealer on one of the locking tabs that you will need to remove before being able to open up the connector. the wires just pop out.

The stock thermoswitch will switch on at 196 degrees which is about a needle or two below the 3/4 mark on the stock temp gauge. it is advisable to change the switch to part number 61-31-8-361-787 that operates at 176F low/ 190F high.

61-31-8-361-787:

Alternatively with a hefty radiator like the X-line you may be able to get away with just swapping the thermoswitch and not messing with the wiring apart from as bimmerteck on r3v suggestions:

‘You can leave the thermo switch wired via the car’s harness and use the stock aux fan wiring as long as your new fan pulls less amps than the e30′s OE aux fan.(many newer fans do) then remove the harness from the stock aux fan (cut close to the motor where there are only 2 wires, these are the 2 wires that will connect to you new fan just like the stock aux fan originally was. be sure to verify the polarity.(brown is ground on the BMW harness).’

He replaced his aux fan with a more efficient Spal pusher unit, this 16″ pusher fan weighs less, is more compact, flows significantly more air than the stock fan, and pulls 3 less amps at full tilt. He wired it to the stock harness for the aux fan and changing out the temp sensor in the radiator so that this fan will automatically cool on low speed if the coolant is above a certain temp (80c) or if the A/C is on to keep the A/C running efficiently in traffic. The high speed defaults the fan to high if the radiator temp temp rises too high (88c) as a backup should the fan resistor for low speed fail or the thermostat/WP allow the car to overheat.

This is the harness he cut off the stock fan, tested, cleaned, and grafted onto his new fan. It’s not really complicated just be sure to observe polarity when installing an double check the fan spins the correct direction before installation. If in doubt also check that your low speed resistor is good and if not replace it at this time. If you find you need a slightly faster low speed take a meter to the junk yards and look for one with less resistance, many older Mercedes had a slightly lower resistance resistor. (I often use these on r134a conversions to increase efficiency in traffic.)

Here’s the harness grafted onto the new fan assembly with the resistor mounted to the motor housing so it will get some airflow to keep it cool.

Factory harness plugs right in nice and clean, just like the stock aux fan did. originally.

Hard to tell from the pic, but it really looks clean and the guard in front of the blades allows for better use of the space in behind the grills.

So your thinking, man I really dont like those bottle caps (stock rims) on my E30. A mistake a lot of people make is they intuitively think that a bigger rim automatically equals a bigger overall wheel diameter. Tire sizing is determined by calculating the mm width of the tread, percentage of that width for the height of the sidewall, and the rim size it fits:

In the above picture the tread will be 185mm wide, the side wall height will be 75% of the height of the the width (185 x .75 = 138.75mm), and it will fit a 14 inch rim.

A stock rim and tire combo on a non-M e30 is 195/65/14 again that means the tread is 195mm wide, the sidewall height is 65% of the width (195 x .65 = 126.75) fitted on a 14 inch rim.

Now to understand the overall diameter of the rim and tire, we calculate ((195*.65)/25.4*2)+14 = 23.980315 inches

So 23.980315 inches is the stock diameter of a wheel on a non-M E30, that is what the speedometer is calibrated to, and that is the height the car will be at the height it was designed to be at (center of gravity). The way we calculated that is by calculating the sidewall height of the tire (195*.65) we divide that by 25.4 to convert from mm to inches then multiply it by 2 because a wheel is round and you need to add the diameter of the rim plus each side of the rubber sidewall.

An E30 M3, and basket weave style rims from europe are 15 inch (irrelevant: but the m3 has a 5 lug setup). Intuitively you would think that it runs a bigger wheel.  Well lets test that theory: the M3 uses a 205/55/15 tire we see that actually it equals (((205 * .55) / 25.4) * 2) + 15 = 23.8779528 inches. Meaning that actually the overall diameter of the wheel on the M3 is ever so slightly smaller, 0.11 isnt much, in terms of tires that is pretty much the same, because tire ratios for the sidewall go in increments of 5 so 205/60/15  = 24.6850394 would be to big and 205/50/15 = 23.0708661 would be to small.

Also assume you get a rim that is the same 14 inch as your current stock rims, but these new rims are wider and you will be running wider tires. If you choose 215/65/14 you are not only changing the width but also the height and will end up with a (((215 * .65) / 25.4) * 2) + 14 = 25.003937 inch wheel. Preferably you need to get a 215/60/14 tire because it is the closest sidewall ratio to the original size (((215 * .60) / 25.4) * 2) + 14 = 24.1574803 inch.

For simplicity sake, say you have a non-M and want a 15 inch rim of the same width as your 14 inch rim you want a 195/60/15 tire  (((195 * .60) / 25.4) * 2) + 15 = 24.2125984.

The optimal sizes for:

16 inch: 195/50/16 (((195 * .50) / 25.4) * 2) + 16 = 23.6771654

17 inch: 195/45/17 (((195 * .45) / 25.4) * 2) + 17 = 23.9094488

18 inch: 195/40/18 (((195 * .40) / 25.4) * 2) + 18 = 24.1417323

Now just for fun say you have a 17 x 8 inch rim and you want the stock wheel diameter, the rim uses a 245mm wide tire, so you would want to run a 245/35/17 as (((245 * .35) / 25.4) * 2) + 17 = 23.7519685

I have embedded a calculator for your using pleasures:

 

It has long been the norm to use subframe spacers while preforming the m60 / m62 v8 swap into an e30. Where did this norm start? Well basically as far as I can tell it started with an old-er swap guide which you will find somewhat translated here.  So for the sake of convenience people started following that guide, and because 300mm (a website) was offering the motor mounts and spacers (if you use said motor mounts you have to use spacers), not knowing otherwise people bought said products. Now generally speaking as far as quality im sure 300mm produces a nice product, however I just do not agree with the execution.

You see, without the subframe spacers the engine sits on an angle, this angle puts pressure on the guibo and the rest of the drivetrain, and generally reduces the amount of space above the engine for things like strut bar. To eliminate this angle the practice has been to use subframe spacers as such:

The reason why subframe spacers are bad is because it raises the body of the car in relation to the subframe, you alter the cars centre of gravity, suspension dynamics and create bump steer.

So what do you do? Well first and foremost you will not be able to use the 300mm mounts, you will have to make some yourself. You have to make the motor mounts yourself because a. no one is currently offering mounts for the configuration I am about to propose b. the 300mm mounts will not work because you will be lowering the engine in relation to the subframe, and considering the mounts connect the engine to the subframe it is only logical that need mounts that will be shorter in height.

The solution is to notch the oil pan, so you can lower the engine more without it hitting the steering rack. There are some select few people who have done this with success. Here is what a normal oil pan looks like (you will only be modifying the upper oil pan):

You will notice there is a buldge in the middle of the pan just right of the mounting bolts for the lower pan.

Here is what, where, and how you will modify it:

Using this method will eliminate the need for subframe spacers (no bumpsteer, suspension geometry stays correct, center of gravity is not lifted), and will reduce the drive train angle to exactly where it needs to be for long term reliability. Considering your saving money on the subframe spacers and on buying motor mounts this method shouldn’t cost you anymore then the former method. I recommend contacting a competent welding shop to notch the oil pan, these shops are usually plentiful in most towns.

When I cover all aspect of the swap myself I will compile and upload a better more ‘improved’ guide on how to do the swap.

Price: 1700 Authentic Alpina rims 17 inch by 8 inch wide, with a 5×120 bolt pattern. No curbrash.

Contact: rytis2@yahoo.com

A few days ago I was researching if it was possible to run a boosterless setup (only master cylinders), and still have leg input force that was daily drivable. When swapping in different engines into an e30, often times the brake booster has to be relocated upfront just behind the left headlight (as with an m60 / m62 swap), some may not want to do this for a variety of reasons, and this is a real clean alternative.

Full credit goes to http://www.jakelatham.com/radical/info/brake_calculators.shtml for setting these calculations up, I have embedded his website below. What I discovered is that with 6.25:1 ratio pedals, and .625″ bore master cylinders (the larger the bore the more effort you will have to input), it is possible to be under 60 pounds of leg input force in an e30. What that tells me is that it is soft enough to be daily driven.

You may ask: but how do I impliment this system? Well, there are a variety of aftermarket pedal assemblies that utilize 3 master cylinders (2 for brake [1 for front 1 for back brakes] and one for the clutch).

Tilton Engineering:

http://www.tiltonracing.com/content.php?page=list2&id=1&m=b

Wilwood:
http://wilwood.com/Search/PartNoSearch.aspx?itemdesc=pedal assembly

Here is where its upto you, as long as you get 3 master cylinders, it doesnt really matter if you get floor mounted, firewall mounted, etc. It is also upto you if you want to install a 3 pedal aftermarket assembly that includes a new throttle pedal, or if you want to buy a 2 pedal aftermarket assembly that will allow you to keep and use your existing throttle pedal. However remember that different pedal assemblies have different pedal ratio’s. For daily driving purposes I would stick with 6:1 or more.

So you have a check engine light on, and your a backyard mechanic. One of the most useful free tools in your arsenal is what is called the stomp test; this test basically makes the check engine light flash to give you a code, with this code you can determine the fault for why the check engine light is on.

Before you go running off and trying this, you should know that this only works with an ECU that ends with a 173; Bosch Motronic M1.3 (as per the label on the top side of the ECU). Alot of e30′s came with an ECU that ended with 153 Bosch Motronic M1.1. The 153 will not let you do the stomp test. I would advise anyone who has a 153 ECU to upgrade to a 173, it is plug and play; unplug the old ecu, plug in the new ecu. The advantages are that A. you can do the stomp test and B. The 173 is a single board verses a dual board; as far as reliability of an ECU is concerned it has half the failure points.

Determining what ECU you have:
1.Try doing the stomp test: if it works you have a 173, if not then you have a 153.
2. Its very easy to find and remove the ECU, you can do this by opening your glove box and removing the plastic panel that lines the top of the compartment (you do not have to remove the glove box), there, behind the plastic, you will find the ECU attached by 4 bolts and connected to a fairly large connector.

The 153 will have a green label and will look like this (hence the last 3 numbers):

The 173 will have a grayish label and will look like this (hence the last 3 numbers):

Now to the stomp test itself:

Turn the ignition to “on” (do NOT start the car), now press the gas pedal in and out 5 times quickly. The check engine light will proceed to flash once to let you know it has initiated the stomp test, then it will display codes as a sequence of 4 numbers; for instance First number: flash, pause, Second number: flash flash, pause, third number: flash flash flash, pause, forth number: flash. Will mean 1231, if there is more then one code it will proceed to display the others, then when you notice it starting to display the same ones again you know that is all of them.

So you have your code, now what? Well take your number and compare to this list from e30world.com (but really from BMW themselves, they have been so kinda as to sort out the e30 relevant ones) to determine the problem:

Fault Code description

I have been looking for Free Vin check website ever since I can remember. Thanks to the guys at http://52internet.net/autocheck/ we all can now get a free autocheck report. Its rather nice seeing where all my old cars have ended up, I had always been curious.

Below:
1. Input the vin number
2. Click generate
3. Then when the vin number appears below the generate report button grayed out; click it and it will bring you to the report.
4. Sit back and enjoy your free Vin check report.

Sorry guys doesn’t work anymore, they seem to have been taken down.

For some this might be obvious but for those who dont know this will save you alot of headache in the future, tightening bolts properly is essential to seal gaskets properly to distribute the tightening pressure so you dont get leaks; in most cases if you dont tighten in the proper order the gasket will usually seal because its new, but almost always will fail before a properly installed gasket as it starts to degrade.

If your working on something that has multiple bolts, the key is to tighten the opposite bolt to the one you just finished tightening.

Lets take for instance the cylinder head bolt tightening sequence for m20 6 cylinder engine in an e30.

You can see by the sequence of the numbers that starting from the bottom center you go opposite then as you go towards the outsides you follow the same process, and intuitively I think you can understand that the head will tighten evenly across if you follow this process.

But thats not where it ends, you still dont want to over tighten any one specific point before you tighten the others equally. Thats why in a lot of applications the bolts must be tightened in stages. Lets take the same m20 here are the stages:

Pre 1989 m20′s were assembled with Hex bolts, thereafter torx bolts where used, if your doing engine work you should replace the hex bolts with torx bolts (the hex bolts and all head bolts are one time use anyways). The tightening procedure explains the for the first stage you follow the sequence for tightening seen in figure 1 and tighten all bolts to 22ftlb, then you start the sequence all over again starting at position 1 and do stage 2 by turning each bolt 90 degree’s, finally the third stage is again starting from position 1 you tighten each bolt 90 degree’s again. so at the end of tightening all bolts each bolt will be tightened 22ftlb+180 degree’s, but in a manner in which it was applied evenly.

This does not only apply to e30′s, m20′s or just engines, this applies to anything that has multiple points of anchoring ranging from transmissions to thermostats.

To simplify even further here is how everyone should be tightening their wheel nuts/bolts.

Replacing your old ground cables is a prime example of one of the best preventative-to-cost ratio maintenance you can do for yourself and your e30. Why? Because if your body to oil pan ground goes out, your starter wont turn and you will be forced to push start or tow your car, and then you will waste a bunch of  time and money thinking if it’s the starter that’s bad, or just on plain diagnostics. I had a ground cable that looked and felt completely intact, but after 22 years trust me it wasn’t grounding anymore, just one day out of the blue at a home depot parking lot it stopped grounding. Luckily I could push start it to get myself home. Another symptom you will most likely notice before it stops grounding all together, or after it has stopped grounding is when your e30 is running, the temp gauge will jump around erratically, one second it will be past the red mark on the very left then it will jump back to the middle, then back again, just generally all over the place. Don’t worry the gauge is just reading incorrectly, your car isn’t / hasn’t overheated.

After replacing the ground cable you will instantly notice that your car cranks significantly stronger just by the sheer ability for the starter to fully ground.

If you can hear your solenoid clicking but your starter isn’t turning then try this to diagnose if the ground cable is the problem:

Find jumper cables then take the negative clamps and clamp one end onto your oil drain plug and the other end onto your steering rack, if the car turns over great then its definitely your ground cable, but again even if it isn’t your problem I suggest replacing it anyways after this many years.

You will find this ground cable from the drivers side in the engine bay and it bolts from the top lip of the oil pan to the left wall of the engine bay. Here is what it will look like:

New vs old:

Here are a bunch of other ground wires you should replace while your at it too, generally speaking you can use any thick wire with the proper hole for mounting but for those purists at heart:

12-52-1-285-011 Alternator ground cable, however I used this to ground the a/c compressor to engine block.
12-52-1-312-124 Alternator ground cable (red).
12-51-1-714-039 Engine to frame rail ground.
65-31-1-286-069 Rocker cover ground, however I used 12-42-7-551-714 off an e9x instead because of the factory 90* bend. Also it’s much nicer looking =).
12-61-1-311-511 Oil level sensor ground. This mounts to the oil pan, which simulates the oil level since our cars don’t have a sensor.  (for m3/s14 guys).
65-31-9-055-973 Radio anti-interference ground strap.
65-31-1-286-068 Hood ground strap.
12-42-7-551-714 off an e9x that i used as a rocker cover ground instead of the ugly 65-31-1-286-069 cable.

Remember the easiest way to pinpoint where all these ground wires go is to go onto www.realoem.com and search the part number. Thank me later!

Before you buy an E90 you should probably consider ether getting a certified pre owned which provides extended warranty or getting after market insurance if your new car warranty is getting near its expiry date. Why? its not uncommon for your new e90 lifters (part of valve train) to start ticking, it happens because a minor design flaw in the head doesn’t allow for enough lubrication to get to the lifters. Usually it will occur when you drive short distances where oil cant warm up properly and thus lubricate effectively. BMW says the sound is rather harmless, but you can be the judge of that.

Heres a video of what the problem sounds like:

Solutions:

Very short term: take it for a hard drive on the highway, this will allow for the engine and oil to get at full operating temperature and will lubricate the lifters, thus making the sound go away, but this is only a temporary fix as the problem will reoccur after some time.

Short term: Bleeding the hydraulic system to get any air pockets out, usually this has the same effect as the previous but will last slightly longer, sometimes it wont work at all though. In my opinion its rather pointless to do this step ether do the earlier or latter. This is also usually the first step the dealer will take to try to mend the problem.

Medium term: Replace all 12 lifters with new lifters, the new lifters will be of a new design as the ones that came with the car when you bought it are now discontinued. This ussually mends the problem ether permanently or for an extended period of time, but has been known to not fix the problem for a lot of people. This is usually the second step taken by the dealer.

Long term/permanent term: The “right” and proper way to fix the problem is to replace the head with a newly designed head which has been redesigned to lubricate better. I have yet to hear of anyone where this didn’t solve their problem. Due to the expense of this process BMW will usually not approve this step util the previous have been done, but never the less will preform the work under warranty.

This problem is actually on the BMW TIS bulletin board (bmw internal bulletin board) this is what the report says (could be a newer version now):

Ticking Noise SBSI B 11 09 07 -N52 Engine HVA System
________________________________________

This Service Information bulletin supersedes SI 11 09 07 dated April 2008.

designates changes to this revision

SUBJECT
Intermittent Hydraulic Valve Adjuster (HVA): “Ticking” or “Rattling” Noises

MODEL
All E82, E83, E85, E86, E88, E60, E61, E70, E90, E91, E92, and E93 with the N51, N52 or N52K engines

SITUATION
An occasional ticking or rattling noise from the HVA elements may occur during cold engine starts or frequent short-distance driving.

CAUSE
In these situations, the HVA elements may not yet have been supplied with sufficient amounts of air-free oil. This condition will not cause any damage to the engine, and usually remedies itself with a longer driving distance or operating times at full operating temperature.

CORRECTION
In the event of a customer complaint, please perform the following the HVA bleeding procedure.

PROCEDURE
Important notes:

The bleed time may take anywhere from between two minutes and (in rare cases) to a maximum of 30 minutes. This procedure is to be performed on a level surface with the vehicle stationary, and in a properly ventilated area.

Procedure preconditions:

Engine oil level correct – neither underfilled nor overfilled

Engine running at operating temperature

Bring the engine up to an operating speed (no load) of 2000-3000 rpm and maintain this condition for three minutes (bleeding procedure).

Let the engine idle for 15-30 seconds and reevaluate whether the noise is still present or not.

Engine quiet – procedure is finished.

Engine noise is still present – repeat the procedure; perform steps #1 and #2 up to a maximum of 5 times.

Only if the noise remains after performing the bleeding procedure 5 times: proceed by performing the procedure for a final time, also at an engine operating speed of 2000-3000 rpm, but for a total time duration of 15 minutes.

WARRANTY INFORMATION
Covered under the terms of the BMW New Vehicle Limited Warranty.

(1) 11-12-7-591-617 N52 Cylinder head with valve
(1) 11-12-9-391-547 Set of Alu. screws F Cylinder
(1) 11-12-7-548-799 Bolt cylinder head
(1) 11-12-0-392-547 set of alu. screws
(3) 11-12-7-521-167 ASS-Stud Bolt
(2) 11-36-7-524-954 Collar Screw
(1) 11-12-7-555-757 Cylinder head gasket
(1) 11-12-7-548-921 Gasket set cylinder head
(1) 11-12-0-409-288 set of alu. screws
(2) 13-62-7-530-413 Torx screw
(2) 11-12-7-529-997 Torx Screw
(6) 33-32-6-768-354 Hex screw with collar
(1) 11-42-7-566-327 Set oil-filter Elem
(7) 07-51-0-017-954 Motor oil SW30
(1) 82-14-1-467-704 Antifreeze
(1) 22-11-0-392-551 Set of Alu. screws

September 2009

This Service Information bulletin supersedes SI B11 09 07 dated January 2009.

SUBJECT
Intermittent Hydraulic Valve Adjuster (HVA) Noise

MODEL
All E82, E83, E88, E85, E86, E60, E61, E70, E90, E91, E92 and E93 vehicles with N51, N52 or N52K engines produced approximately up to November 31st 2008; refer to cylinder head casting identification attachment.

SITUATION
An occasional ticking or rattling noise from the camshaft hydraulic valve lifters (HVA) may occur during cold engine starts, due to frequent short-distance driving, or the noise may occur for an extended period of time even though the engine is at operating temperature.

Improved parts were phased into production beginning on 10/1/2008 and fully implemented on November 31st 2008.

CORRECTION
Do not perform the bleeding procedure that was previously provided in SI B11 09 07 which has now been deleted.

All vehicles produced between 10/1/2008 and 11/31/2008 must have each vehicle’s cylinder head casting number identified before hydraulic valve lifters (HVA) replacement, due to staggered implementation. Refer to the attachment for the casting number location. Vehicles produced after 11/31/2008 have already been fitted with improved parts. Vehicles produced prior to 10/1/2008 will require the new parts.

Improved Casting Numbers

N51 (B30)
7588277.01

N52 (B30)
7588273.01

N52K (B30)
7588271.01

A cylinder head casting number that does not match will require replacement of the 12 exhaust camshaft hydraulic valve lifters (HVA) as per Repair Instruction RA 11 33 050, Removing and installing/replacing all rocker arms. Only the exhaust camshaft and rocker arms have to be removed in order to replace the hydraulic valve lifters. Do not remove or replace any intake camshaft valve train components.

PARTS INFORMATION
Part Number
Description
Quantity

11 33 7 605 330
Hydraulic Valve Lifter (HVA)
12

Refer to EPC for additional gaskets, seals and bolts, as required by the Repair Instructions.

WARRANTY INFORMATION
Covered under the terms of the BMW New Vehicle Limited Warranty, or the Certified Pre-Owned program.

Please refer to the latest KSD for the applicable Main or Associated labor allowance for the specific model.

Defect Code:
11 33 93 39 00

Labor Operation:
Labor Allowance:
Description:

00 58 248
Refer to KSD
Replace exhaust camshaft hydraulic valve lifters (HVA)

*Main Work

or

00 58 827
Refer to KSD
Replace exhaust camshaft hydraulic valve lifters (HVA)

+ Associated Work

Note: The following explanations will spell out the correct use of the work times.

Main Work:
Use this labor operation number when the only repair performed is the listed warranty
repair.

OR

+Associated Work:
Use this labor operation number when other repairs or services are performed along with the listed warranty repair.
Under no circumstances should both labor operation numbers be claimed. Attempts to claim both times will result in an unnecessary delay in claim processing and payment.

(1) 11-12-7-591-617 N52 Cylinder head with valve
(1) 11-12-9-391-547 Set of Alu. screws F Cylinder
(1) 11-12-7-548-799 Bolt cylinder head
(1) 11-12-0-392-547 set of alu. screws
(3) 11-12-7-521-167 ASS-Stud Bolt
(2) 11-36-7-524-954 Collar Screw
(1) 11-12-7-555-757 Cylinder head gasket
(1) 11-12-7-548-921 Gasket set cylinder head
(1) 11-12-0-409-288 set of alu. screws
(2) 13-62-7-530-413 Torx screw
(2) 11-12-7-529-997 Torx Screw
(6) 33-32-6-768-354 Hex screw with collar
(1) 11-42-7-566-327 Set oil-filter Elem
(7) 07-51-0-017-954 Motor oil SW30
(1) 82-14-1-467-704 Antifreeze
(1) 22-11-0-392-551 Set of Alu. screws